When I told my Mum on Friday night that I had travelled 1081 miles and 68 chains on the West Coast Main Line (WCML) in the last 24 hours, her response was “Do they still use chains? How splendid.” And it is when you think about it. You can tell people a chain is the length of a cricket pitch which may help visualisation but unless you know the length of a cricket pitch in some other unit it doesn’t really help. And what about the number of chains in a mile. Educated railway professionals know the answers to these things (including the cricket bit), but I’m guessing not so many others do these days. Sadly, the use of miles and chains is slowly being replaced with km as the new signalling system, ETCS, is rolled out though it will be many years before we totally lose the chains. Some lines destined not to have ETCS may only go to km when they become inconvenient imperial islands in the middle of metric, though I doubt that issue will concern my working life.
The point of the 1000 mile epic was to compare the ride qualities of various different types of rolling stock. I’m not going to go into the details here but it is something that I hope will shape a new train fleet, and also shape how I write train procurement specifications going forward as I am seeing a hole in the cheese that needs filling. The logistical problem I had was that the day I had available to do this work was Friday but I needed to be in London on the Thursday. The testing I needed to do was from Edinburgh travelling to Lancaster. And back. Twice. Which meant I needed to be in Edinburgh in the morning before a train from York could get me there. So that left me with two options on the Thursday night – either take an Azuma on the ECML, wave as the train passed my home in York, arrive 4 hours later in Edinburgh at 2200-2300 and get a hotel, or hang around in London until past 2200 and get the sleeper. I opted for the latter. The reason behind my decision was that the last time I travelled on the sleeper, as a way to get to another site for ride testing, was in 2018 and it was the old Mk3 stock, and I wanted to see what the new Mk5 stock is like.
The map shows my epic travels. Purple is Thursday ECML from York to London. Red is Thursday night / Friday morning sleeper from London to Edinburgh. Green is the testing on the WCML Edinburgh to Lancaster (and back, twice – did I mention that before). And pink is my journey home on an Azuma on Saturday.
Both ECML journeys I seatfrogged into first class. If you’ve never done that it is worth a punt. Basically you bid eBay style on a first class seat. For the operator it is a definite bonus as it releases standard class seats which can be in short supply and means they get some money for otherwise carrying fresh air in first class. York to London I paid £10 upgrade, and Edinburgh to York was £5 upgrade – and LNER still offers a decent first class catering option at weekends unlike all the other operators.
So come just after 2230 on Thursday I found myself on the northbound Lowlander sleeper although it doesn’t actually leave until 2350 (2345 public timetable). It comprises two parts – the Glasgow, and Edinburgh portions. At Carstairs, the train pulls into the platform, and the front vehicles head for Glasgow, while the rear vehicles reverse to go round the lesser used side of the triangle to Edinburgh.
To try to record my thoughts on the journey I did a couple of videos – one before the journey, and one after. I was in a Club Duo, or to put it more basically, a bunk for two with an en-suite. It is one of the features of the new trains is that many (not all) of the accommodation is en-suite. As a colleague said to me “it’s a train full of bogs”.
The morning after, I was not in the happiest of moods. Worse sleeps I’ve had were when I had chicken pox as an adult, and nights I’ve had in hospital. Better sleeps I have had would include every other sleep I’ve ever had, including the ones with a new born baby in a cot next to my side of the bed.
The video is here, and if you can cope with a bit more after you’ve watched that, here are some more thoughts.
- The ride is awful. Did I say that already. Rattles and bangs. The coach seemed to spend more time on the bump stops of the suspension that not.
- The best bit of sleep I got was the 15 minutes when it stopped at Preston.
- The breakfast was nice but I forgot to ask for no beans.
- I originally sat in one of the lateral facing seats in the Club Car but I found it so uncomfortable I asked to move to one of the swivel seats. The buffet staff member seemed surprised about that but as a tall person the seats are a) too low which encourages you to slouch but they are also b) far too hard to slouch in. I got back-ache within 2 minutes of sitting down. The last seats to do that to me were the ones on the Cl.700s (the ironing boards). The double contoured cushion base looks nice but because it is rock hard, when you sit on it you can feel the double bumps and it is really uncomfortable. The swivel chairs aren’t much more comfortable as they have been designed with slim hipped people in mind and if you’re not the wings of the seat back dig into your back and means you can’t sit far enough back in the seat to be anything else than a perch seat. Fortunately after a while your back goes numb so you don’t feel it. Definitely better than the upright seats but similar to being asked to choose whether to swim in a 1 deg or 2 deg temperature sea.
- The crew seemed to think it was OK to have a personal conversation in the Club car at a really high volume when everyone was having breakfast – I suppose it distracted us from the rattles but it isn’t a good look.
- I don’t have specific photos of it, but the control boxes in the bunks for the lighting and sockets don’t seem very well thought out, especially as the one with the master controls is on the bottom bunk and they are not repeated on the top bunk. And the location of the them mean you are intended to sleep with your head near the corridor while I prefer to have my head near the window.
- There are lights to help you when you are using the sink. Because they are either side of the window they have been termed “window lights”. The lights aren’t there to light the window though. It would be much better if they were labelled “sink lights” or something that described their function rather than their position.
- The bunk is too short unless you are under six foot.
- The “sides” of the top bunk to stop you falling out would snap if you tried to pull yourself up on them. I am told that they aren’t even rated strong enough to stop someone falling out – so you do have to wonder what they are there for.
- And yes, just to finish, let’s remind ourselves that the reason the top bunk was uncomfortable was because there was a ladder under the mattress. Honestly.
So to summarise, would I go on a sleeper again. Of course. I love travelling by trains and I love going to sleep in one place and waking up in the next.
- Continental Europe – definitely.
- Cornish Riviera – absolutely, that service uses Mk3s.
- Caledonian sleeper – no, never again.
Next time I’ll get the Azuma.